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Going Skiing

 

This sets out to give an overview of where to go skiing, how to get there and what to expect when you arrive. Individual resorts are not catalogued, though some are mentioned by name. The aim is to offer a general, not specific, and honest guide to ski holidays. It is designed to give information to those who have never been skiing and help them to get the most out of their first trip. It is also for those who have already taken skiing holidays, but want to try skiing in a different country, travelling a different way or making independent travel and accommodation arrangements.

 

1. Choosing where to go

Which country

Which resort

What type of accommodation - hotels, chalets, apartments

 

2. Booking with a tour company

  Accommodation - hotels, chalets, apartments

  Travel - air, coach, train, car

  Ski packs - lift passes, ski and boot hire, ski school

 

3. Making independent arrangements

  Accommodation

  Travel

 

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Choosing where to go

 

a) Which country?

The main countries for skiing holidays in Europe are Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland and Andorra/Spain. Added to those are Norway, Sweden and Scotland, but particularly in the last the scope is far less. Across the Atlantic are the USA and Canada. While there is also skiing in Australia, New Zealand, Japan and numerous other countries, these are not usual destinations for UK skiers.

Austria

If you are seeking Alpine charm, Austria will suit you. There are plenty of wooden chalets, a very friendly welcome and an air of being in real mountain communities. It used to be one of the few countries where you could go into a bar and order a round of tap water and still be welcomed - though that is less the case now! The downside to staying in what are mostly old villages which have become ski centres, is that they tend to offer less skiing convenience than the 'ski station' resorts found in France. You may have to walk, or take a bus, to the main lift areas. While major resorts such as St Anton, Lech, Saalbach/Hinterglemm, Kitzbuhel and Obergurgl all have main lifts within the villages, in only a few cases are you able to ski 'to and from the door'.

France

It would be unfair to say that no French resorts display true Alpine charm, but the main ones are mostly relatively new 'ski stations', often in what were empty pastures, but some built round an original very small settlement. However, what you tend to lose in numbers of wooden chalets and the welcome from the locals, you gain in convenience. It is also the case that while as a visitor to a French resort you used to feel like an unavoidable nuisance, to whom it was quite unnecessary to be polite, this attitude has changed markedly in the last few years. The term 'ski to the door' was invented here, and in general means it. In many cases you emerge from your hotel or apartment building straight on to the snow, and off you go to catch your first lift, though you may have to use a bus to reach a different area. Examples of such purpose-built resorts are Courchevel, Meribel Mottaret, La Plagne, Tignes, Les Arcs and Flaine.

 

Apart from in the Alps, there are also ski resorts in the Pyrenees; these tend to be lower and have shorter ski runs, but are also cheaper.

Italy

Italy has historically tended to be a cheaper place to ski than are its northern neighbours and there is no doubt that pasta is a very good dish to fuel skiing! Against this is the fact that both genuine Alpine charm and convenience skiing are quite limited; as yet there are few 'ski to the door' resorts. However, with the major exception of Courmayeur most have main lifts and runs out of and into the village. The two skiing areas are in the Alps in the centre and west of northern Italy, and in the Dolomites to the east. The scenery in the Dolomites is very different to that of the main Alps range, and quite breathtaking; here you are also likely to find more chalet-style building. A strong factor for Italian resorts is that they end to be extremely friendly and accommodating to their visitors.

Switzerland

This is where the concept of skiing holidays began, but for years it suffered from being more expensive than other countries; this is now less of a problem. Most resorts are still traditional villages or small towns, rather than 'ski stations', apart from those that form part of the Portes du Soleil, an area which runs between France and Switzerland. Despite this, many lack the charm normally associated with Alpine communities, and they do not have the convenience to offset this. However the scenery is generally superb and the skiing good.

Andorra and Spain

Andorra is the place for a budget skiing holiday, and it is a duty free country. The nightlife is reputed to be lively and cheap. However do not expect either charm or skiing convenience. In addition the Pyrenees, being lower, do not boast the length of run that can be found in the Alps. Soldeu is regarded as the best resort in the area.

Spain has two skiing areas; in the Pyrenees to the north and the Sierra Nevada to the south. Baqueira-Beret is the main Pyrenees resort and has good skiing, but is expensive compared with Andorra. Sierra Nevada again lacks charm and can get very crowded, but it is quite convenient. It is a good place to go if you want to do other things on your holiday besides skiing, such as visiting Granada.

USA and Canada

North American skiing divides broadly into two areas - the Rockies in the west and the eastern seaboard mountain ranges from New York State up to north of Quebec in Canada. These two areas are very different in scope and conditions. However in all cases resorts tend to have a higher standard of accommodation than in Europe, the welcome is warm, and the 'trails' are well groomed. In addition it can be a great advantage to be taught in English. On the other hand the skiing is often less challenging than in Europe, (not a problem for beginners), and buses often have to be used between areas, but they do work well.

The western resorts tend to have good, reliable snow conditions as they are generally high. However this height throws up one problem, which is that visitors from Europe have to cope with potential altitude sickness as well as jet lag. If you can, it is better to take a few extra days and stop over in, for example, Denver, to help your body acclimatise.

The eastern resorts have less reliable conditions and are often icy; the term 'New England boilerplate' was coined for the hard packed snow that often develops. However extensive artificial snow-making helps nature along. The resorts are lower than in the Rockies, which makes the trails shorter, but against this is the fact that altitude sickness is not a problem. In addition, the flight is much shorter, lessening the jet lag effect.

b) Picking a resort

This is the most important decision; it is essential to choose a resort that offers your level of skiing. There is nothing worse than finding yourself faced with ski runs that you feel unequal to tackling, and you will probably never go again, or worse still hurt yourself.

Most of the package tour brochures offer information on the levels of skiing in the resorts they cover, though some give better guidance than others. If you are a beginner you need a place that offers good nursery slopes, and probably one that does not involve too much walking to and from lifts and the bottom of runs. A long hike in ski boots can be the final straw for new skiers who are already asking their bodies to use different muscles from usual. This is also important if you are taking smaller children, not least because you are likely to find yourself carrying their equipment as well as your own.

Consult a number of different brochures to get as full a picture as possible of a resort; the type of slopes, the convenience of the skiing, child care facilities and ages at which children can enter ski school, if appropriate, night life and whatever other factors are important to you. As these brochures give pictures of at least some of the accommodation they offer, you can also get a reasonable idea of the type of resort, be it an Alpine village or a modern ski station. Alternatively you can buy, or find in a local library, a guide such as the 'Which Good Skiing and Snowboarding Guide', which will give extensive, and unbiased, information. Another source is the Ski Club of Great Britain, though you have to be a member to get full information.

c) Type of Accommodation

There are a number of choices when it comes to accommodation: hotel, usually with half board, pension, with breakfast only, chalet, chalet hotel or apartment. Many of the French ski stations are largely apartment and chalet based, while older resorts tend to have less apartments and more hotels and pensions.

With hotels the advantages are obvious, you get meals provided - some even provide full board - and someone cleans and makes the bed. There are usually, but not invariably, lounge and bar areas in which to socialise. The hotel to choose will depend on what facilities you want, and what you are prepared to pay. Although brochure prices are higher for hotels, it can still work out cheaper to take this option than to be in a pension and have to eat out every night; and you might be glad not to go out if there is a snow storm!

Pensions are usually of a lower standard of a comfort, may not have a public room, let alone a bar, and you will have to eat out in the evenings. However, many people view trying different restaurants as an interesting part of the holiday. As with hotels, you tend to get what you pay for.

Chalets started life as a cheaper option than a hotel, but with services. Now some chalets can be more expensive than the priciest hotel, but generally speaking they are still cheaper and have certain advantages. Apart from offering an evening meal, most provide tea and cakes when you return from the slopes, which can be very welcome. In addition most give free wine with the evening meal; this is sometimes, but not always, unlimited. Those staffing the chalet have one day a week off, when you will be expected to eat out, and make your own bed if this is usually done by them. Most chalets have a maximum of 20/24 beds. Chalets used to have a smaller percentage of rooms with en suite facilities than hotels, but this is changing. What can be a disadvantage with chalets, is that they tend to have only one common room, often not that big, and meal times are set, so if you are with uncongenial people it is difficult to get away apart from retiring to your own room. This can be avoided by getting a party together and booking a whole chalet.

Chalet hotels developed from the chalet concept, and in general do genuinely combine hotel and chalet. They tend to have a lounge and a bar, usually open to the public too, and have more rooms than the traditional chalet. Tea with cakes and free wine with the evening meal can be expected, and although dinner will usually be at a set time, the dining room will have a number of tables, giving a choice of companions. Chalet hotels are usually cheaper than the equivalent standard of hotel, but again the staff will have one day off when you have to go out for your evening meal.

Apartments are the main accommodation in a number of the ski station resorts such as La Plagne and Flaine. The advantages are that the basic price is cheaper and they offer the freedom to keep your own timetable. Add-on costs can be raised or lowered depending on whether you choose to self-cater in the evenings or eat at restaurants. Apartments in Austria and Italy tend to be larger than those available in France, and you should check the size; most brochures give the floor area in square meters. Another thing to bear in mind is that most 'apartments for four' mean that two of the beds are in the living area, and you may want to spend more to get two separate sleeping areas. Given the often small apartment sizes, kitchen areas can also be minimal, so catering has to be simple unless you are a culinary genius. Apartments remain the cheapest form of accommodation on snow, and in the purpose built resorts will almost certainly offer 'ski out, ski in'.

 

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Booking with a tour company

 

There are a large number of companies offering skiing holidays. Some are general and cover resorts in both Europe and North America, while some specialise in particular areas or even just one resort. Their ski holiday brochures are usually issued in the summer, any time from June. However some companies produce an 'advance booking' brochure, which will normally offer slightly cheaper prices for early commitment, and the paying of a deposit. Acquire a number of different companies' brochures, then study them carefully to see which of their holiday choices suits what you want. If there is anything you want to know which is not in the brochure, call the agent.

Brochures will give a brief description of each resort, the type of skier it will suit, from Beginners through to Advanced, and a plan of the skiing area. You can learn a lot here from a little. For instance a headline saying 'the area is well known for its challenging skiing' suggests it may offer far less for the novice. Links with other resorts will be mentioned, and often the number of lifts will be detailed, and how much snow-making equipment there is, for when natural cover is light. Information about the ski school and kindergartens is also usually given. They will then describe the accommodation available, usually the most expensive first through to the cheapest, and give details about travel to the resort and ski packs - see below.

Most companies offer Saturday to Saturday holidays; a few offer Sunday to Sunday.

a) Accommodation

With all accommodation, if you want a telephone, television or other equipment in your room or apartment, check that this is available.

Different companies may well offer what appear at first to be the same hotel rooms at varying prices. You need to check all the information in the price list, as with any tour booking, to see what is and is not included. The cheaper price may be because the room does not face the slopes; those with views will cost more. Some may quote prices with en suite facilities and some may not. Check the estimated distance to the lift station, nursery slopes and shops, and what facilities are available, for example a pool or sauna. In ski resorts, the larger hotels will be the more expensive ones.

Chalets tend to be leased and run by individual companies, so any one chalet is unlikely to appear in more than one brochure. As with hotels, prices will depend on standard of accommodation and service, such as the number of en suite rooms, the size of the public areas and the type of meals provided. Some chalets take as few as 6 guests, and some up to 30, but the majority will have 10-20 beds. Most brochures will describe the types of room available in each individual chalet. Again, check the estimated distance to the lift station, nursery slopes and shops.

Apartment complexes, like hotels, tend to be common to a number of tour companies. Descriptions should cover the size, (and if not, ask), the number of rooms and the kitchen and bathing facilities. They should also indicate the availability of cutlery and china, usually provided, and bed linen and towels, which are not always included. If they are not, it is often possible to get both for a price supplement. Check also whether or not the price includes any local taxes, heating, and cleaning after your departure.

b) Travel to the Resort

Most skiers are still conveyed to their resort by air and then coach. North American resorts obviously offer no choice to this, though it is possible to hire your own car to travel from airport to resort. Apart from self-drive, air travel is also usually the only option for Austrian, Italian, Swiss and Andorran/Spanish resorts. However other travel methods are offered for most French Alpine resorts, and can give certain advantages.

Air travel

Winter charter flights do not tend to be either very late at night or very early in the morning as they can be in summer. However flight details can change very near to your departure date, and even then winter weather can make a complete mockery of schedules. That said, most people reach their resort with only limited delays. Even going to Europe, a week's holiday will generally only give you six days' skiing if you travel by air. Even if you are on an early flight, by the time you have reached your destination, often waited for another flight to bring more passengers to fill your coach, transferred to the resort and hired your skis and boots, the skiing day will probably be over. On the return trip your tour operator will want to leave the resort with plenty of time to allow for bad weather and possibly heavy traffic on the way to the airport, and you are unlikely to get any skiing. Finally, beware fellow travellers carrying skis in airports - they can be a bit wild!

Coach travel

A few companies offer overnight coach travel to ski resorts. These coaches will set off on Friday afternoons; departure times will depend on the starting point. They usually cross the Channel by ferry, which gives you a chance to stretch your legs and have a meal, then drive through the night to reach the resort on Saturday morning. Most coaches will have refreshments available on board, though it is wise to have some emergency supplies. A video is usually shown, and a few coaches have seats that convert into sleeping bunks. One stop is usually made during the night. Departures from the resort are late afternoon or early evening on the following Saturday, arriving back in the UK on Sunday morning. The advantage to this form of travel is that you will get eight full days in the resort to ski, and in addition the coach fare is cheaper than the flight. However it takes more time because you have to leave on a Friday, and not get back till Sunday morning. You may also find the journey uncomfortable, and you are unlikely to sleep very well!

Snowtrain

Trains were the original way in which the early skiers from the UK reached the Swiss mountains and are popular again. The Snowtrain services are overnight and, as with coach travel, departures are on Friday afternoons to reach the resort on Saturday mornings. The return journey will begin the following Saturday in the late afternoon, returning Sunday late morning, giving you eight full days in the resort. It is usually a little cheaper than air travel, but not as cheap as by coach. The Snowtrains have compartments with six couchette bunks so you at least lie flat, but again you are unlikely to sleep well. Also unless your group fills the compartment you will probably be sharing with others. Refreshments are usually available on the train, but the buffet cars are very crowded and supplies can run out. Taking your own supplies is therefore recommended. Most companies offer a choice of routes. The cheaper way is to go to Dover by train, cross the Channel by ferry and then pick up the Snowtrain from Calais; tour operators take you from ferry to train by coach.

More expensive, but slightly easier, is to get the Eurostar from London Waterloo, or Ashford, to Paris Gare du Nord, from where another Snowtrain departs. This option usually leaves time to get an evening meal in Paris, but not anywhere too far from the station, and tour operators will have your luggage stored while you eat and ensure that it is taken to the correct platform for the ski-train. If you choose to ski the week before Christmas week, usually the first week in which resorts are officially open and often known as 'White Week', train arrangements can be different as the Snowtrain service may not start till the weekend before Christmas. However the tour company should still be able to arrange train travel for you, (see also the Independent Travel section), and the advantages of skiing in White Week are low prices and relatively empty ski slopes.

Eurostar

An increasing number of tour companies are offering this option, direct from Waterloo to close by the major ski resorts of the Tarentaise and Savoie such as Courchevel, Meribel and Val d'Isere, completing the journey to the resort by coach, which usually takes a half to one hour. Costs vary but are unlikely to be less than air travel.

It is possible to take the Eurostar overnight, leaving Waterloo on Friday evening, but there are no couchettes so you sleep, or not, in your seat! Refreshments are available, but some supplies of your own are recommended. Return is on the following Saturday night, again giving you eight days in the resort.

Alternatively you can take a day train, departing on Saturdays and returning the following Saturday. This means you are away for less time, but get only 6 days skiing. In addition some people who have used this service say that it is a long time in a train and only certain sections of the route offer appealing scenery, so you may as well do it overnight and be sleeping!

Self-drive

Many tour companies offer this option, and they will usually book a ferry, or the Shuttle, for you. The cost will be less than the brochure price per person travelling by air or train, the difference depending on the number of people in the car. In addition some companies may offer booking arrangements for overnight stays on the way there and back. The time you spend in the resort is up to you; leave the UK in time to arrive on Saturday morning, and stay till the end of skiing on the following Saturday, or not arrive till the Saturday evening and leave again on the following Saturday morning. However most self-drivers aim to maximise their time on the snow.

The main French and Swiss resorts are 650-800 miles from Calais; the AA or RAC should be able to give you the distance to the resort of your choice.

AA Five Star Insurance or some equivalent is recommended, particularly if you are travelling with children. This will offer transport to a garage and repair, or alternative transport if the vehicle cannot be repaired at the time. The vehicle will also be taken back to the UK if necessary. Extra hotel bills incurred because of the breakdown are also covered.

More on self-drive is given in the 'Making Independent Arrangements' section, but there are some important points:

You must carry an insurance certificate and inform your insurance company in advance that you are travelling abroad.

You must take your registration document and a current tax disc, and your full driving licence.

Check your antifreeze - it needs to be at the manufacturer's recommended level for temperatures down to -30°C.

Take a windscreen scraper and de-icer.

Take a warning triangle.

Attach headlamp beam converters to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic.

Take a torch and a shovel.

You are legally required to carry snow chains when driving on mountain roads in all European countries; on the spot fines can be made if you do not have them. They can be hired or bought in the UK, or bought during the journey, but prices can be high if you buy them up the mountain. It is usually easier to take them with you.

c) Ski packs

The majority of companies offer the facility to pay in advance, in Sterling, for the cost of lift passes, ski school and equipment hire. You may also be offered a discount if you book at the same time as you book your holiday. This is because the companies often get discounts from the lift operators, ski schools and hire shops for giving them 'mass' business. The advantage of pre-payment is that you have a better idea before you start of what the total cost may be, and you will spend less in the resort. You may also benefit from exchange rate changes between payment and your holiday date. The disadvantage is lack of flexibility; once you have paid you are unlikely to get any money back if you decide, for example, that you want to use a different equipment hire shop. In addition you may lose on exchange rate changes between payment and your holiday date.

When you are buying your lift pass, either through a ski pack or in the resort, check that you have the correct pass for your likely usage. A number of the larger French resort areas have various passes on offer, depending on how much of the ski area you use. For instance, if you are a beginner on holiday in Courchevel you are unlikely to need the full Three valleys ski pass; the local Courchevel one will suffice.

While in general there is only one ski school in a resort, and largely staffed by local instructors, more variety is emerging. In a number of the modern French resorts there are now schools which offer full English-speaking lessons. This can be a distinct advantage when you are learning. However it should be said that in most resorts the old "ben' ze knees and follow me" style of teaching has long gone, and most schools will pride themselves on being able to communicate properly in English. In the North American resorts, of course, the language problem does not arise. In some cases you may have the option of a guaranteed smaller class; this will cost a little more but is well worth the money, as you will learn more quickly. In all cases, if you are unhappy with the class in which you have been placed let the ski school know; it is, after all, your holiday not a boot camp, and it is in their interests to keep you happy. Unless you are trying to move up into a class that the school thinks is beyond your ability there should be no problem in changing.

Most ski hire shops will offer what they call 'standard' or 'superior' equipment. When you are learning, standard skis should be perfectly adequate, though at a later stage you may want to upgrade to skis that will almost certainly be newer as well as giving a better performance. Boots are a different matter; pay what you must in order to be comfortable. If you have any trouble with standard boots try the superior ones, and furthermore keep going back to the shop and changing boots until you find a pair that fit you properly. They should be firm and snug, but they do not have to hurt. Pinched or blistered feet have ruined many a skiing holiday!

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Independent arrangements

The internet has made independent booking for skiing holidays much easier. Most resorts of any size have a website, and though you may not be able to find it immediately the search engines usually get there in the end.

The best information is available on the US resorts, where you are likely to find everything you want to know and book on line as well. To start, try www.skicentral.com, www.skinet.com, www.snow.com (for Vail), www.skicolorado.org and www.skiutah.com. The Ski Club of Great Britain site, www.skiclub.co.uk, also has links to some resort websites in both the US and Europe. For Europe also try www.austria-info.at, www.skifrance.fr. and www.switzerlandtourism.ch. These resort sites will usually contain entries for different types of accommodation.

In addition travel is not difficult to arrange, with a choice of air, train or self-drive. Independently organised ski holidays can often work out more cheaply, as there are no commissions to agents involved. Also you have total freedom as to when you go, and out of peak-season it is often possible to go midweek to midweek if you prefer, particularly at hotels and apartments not heavily used by UK operators. Finally it can be very satisfying to book it all yourself, and find yourself in better accommodation for your money after a journey not subject to group arrangements.

a) Accommodation

While there is likely to be a wealth of information on a resort website about the accommodation available, on European sites this often does NOT include where in the resort the hotel or apartment is situated, or how far from the ski lifts, nursery slopes and ski school. As location is an important feature, this information must be found. In some cases the website will include a resort map with numbers for the location of accommodation, and some individual hotels will have their own website, which explains where in the resort they are. At present, however, these are not widespread. However most resort tourist offices will have paper lists of accommodation, and plans as to where it is situated. The website should give the tourist office telephone number and address, and often you can order these lists and plans on line. If not, ring or write. Alternatively, the UK tourist office of the relevant country may stock such accommodation lists and plans for certain resorts.

Sometimes accommodation further from the lifts may be cheaper, but if you choose this you need to know where the bus routes are. Plans mentioned above may include this information. If you have driven to the resort you may be able to take your car from your accommodation to a car park near the lifts, but there is usually a daily parking charge.

Often hotel rooms or apartments are cheaper when booked directly, rather than through a tour company, as there are no commissions involved. So for any level of accommodation you should get more for your money by taking the time to do your own investigations. You are more likely to be able to make midweek to midweek bookings in a hotel than in an apartment. Reservations can usually be made by fax or on line, and deposits are taken by credit card. Apartment complexes will have a central office where you go to collect your keys on arrival. Privately owned flats will have individual arrangements.

Another source of accommodation is from newspaper advertisements in the UK press, or specialist skiing publications, as a number of people from the UK own apartments in ski resorts and let them out when they are not using them. One advantage to this is that you can generally find out about the resort and the accommodation before you start, and often collect the key in advance. This gives more flexibility for your arrival time in the resort.

Chalets are not an option for independent holidays, as they were invented and are run by the UK ski holiday companies. You would have to book the chalet accommodation through the operator and then travel independently if you preferred.

b) Travel to the Resort

Independent travel arrangements can be made for air, rail or self-drive travel; the only coach journeys to the Alps are run by the tour companies. For the first two methods the major differences from booking with a tour company are the use of normal scheduled services, and the need to arrange transport from airport or mainline station to your resort.

Air travel

While scheduled flights are generally more reliable than charters, winter weather in mountain regions is no respecter of the timetables of the airlines, so delays may still occur. This is particularly true of airports such as Innsbruck in Austria. Going to the North American Rockies, independent arrangements allow you to take a few days' extra to allow for altitude change and jet lag.

Travel on from the airport is usually by bus, taxi or hire car, though many Swiss and Austrian resorts can also be accessed by train from Geneva/Zurich or Munich. This may also involve a bus or taxi for the final part of the journey from the mainline station to the resort. Most airports anywhere near ski areas will have regular bus services to those resorts, and also willing taxis, though the price of the latter is likely to be high. The choice of hiring a car will depend how far on from the airport you have to travel, whether you want to stop overnight en route and how much use it will be in the resort. In the Dolomites, for example, where one ski pass covers a very large number of resorts, a car can be very helpful in trying different ski areas.

In North America it is possible to fly on to resorts such as Aspen, though pre-booking is essential. If expense is no object, and you have strong nerves, flying on is also possible to those European resorts that have altiports, or mountain airports, such as Courchevel and Meribel in France.

Train travel

For travel to French resorts, the choice is similar to that offered by the tour companies, and you can book independently on the Snowtrains. However, other variations are possible, and the year-round scheduled overnight couchette service tends to offer a higher level of comfort than the 'Snowtrain', and a complementary bottle of water is provided. Against that, you may find that there is no buffet car and refreshments are only available from vending machines, which are not always working. Also if you travel Eurostar to Paris, you may have to change from the Gare du Nord to the Gare Austerlitz to catch the sleeper train. These stations are on the same Metro line, or there are plenty of taxis. The French Tourist Office in London can provide information on the alternatives, or try the UK rail information service.

 It is also possible to travel by train to the Austrian resorts. Particularly helpful for arrangements is the Deutschebahn (German railway) office in London; the Austrian Tourist Office is not. The UK rail service should also be able to provide information and timetables. One of the routes is to go Eurostar to Brussels, and pick up an overnight sleeper train there; it is not necessary to change stations. Trains generally go to Munich then on to the Austrian resorts. St Anton, for instance, lies on the main line. Elsewhere it will be necessary to take a bus or taxi to the resort. The sleeper train from Brussels offers much more comfort than you find on French ones. The bunks and bedding are better, and usually your party will have a six-berth compartment to yourselves. This means that the more of you there are, the cheaper the cost per person will be. Each carriage has a steward you will wake you in the morning with coffee or tea and biscuits; they often have a small store of other refreshments too. Sometimes there is also a buffet car. Even so, a few emergency rations are recommended.

Train travel to Switzerland can also be easily organised, and most resorts are readily accessible from main line stations. Information and timetables are available from the Swiss Tourist Office, UK rail services and the French Tourist Office.

Italian resorts are harder to access by train, but not impossible. Contact the Italian and French Tourist Offices, and UK rail services. Generally Italian resorts are further from mainline stations, so the cost of travel onwards will be greater.

Self-drive

This offers the ultimate freedom from timetables and organised travel, and if you choose to take the Eurotunnel Shuttle you even have some leeway as to which train you catch. Some companies, such as Bridge Travel, will book your Channel crossing (tunnel or ferry) and provide vouchers for an overnight stay in varying hotel groups for an inclusive price. For travel to French and Swiss resorts there are various options. You can set off early on Friday to overnight en route and arrive in the resort on Saturday morning, drive through Friday night for the same arrival, or leave on Friday night, overnight near the French channel ports and arrive in the resort on Saturday afternoon. If you are driving the longer distance to Austrian, Italian or even Spanish resorts your choices will be more limited because you will need more time.

Motorway tolls are payable in Austria, France and Switzerland. In France you pay by the mile, whereas Austria and Switzerland operate sticker systems which cover all motorways. If you are going to Austria you can take the route through Belgium and Germany which will avoid most charges. You can check the exact cost of tolls through France before you depart, by contacting the French Tourist office or the main UK motoring organisations.

If you intend to overnight en route, you can book ahead before you go. If you are travelling on the weekends before or after Christmas, at the French half term weeks in February or at Easter, this is essential. If you do not, you may find you have to drive much further than you intended before you can find a place to stay. However it is generally fairly easy to get accommodation during the rest of the winter months. This means that armed with, for example, a Novotel or Ibis booklet, or a Logis de France guide, you can wait and see how the journey is going before you commit yourself to where you will stay. It is worth checking how far from the motorway your chosen accommodation is; you may not want a long trip to and from the major road.

As in the UK, luggage left in cars overnight can be vulnerable. At the extreme it can all be unloaded, though this defeats the advantage of putting everything in the car at home and not taking most of it out till you arrive. Parking near the entrance door to your hotel, or under a light, lessens the risk, as does covering everything up. Do not leave anything on a roof rack.

The freedom is yours. Take a quick shuttle, race through France, staying overnight at a motorway service station with hotel accommodation, and get there as fast as possible. Or take a cross Channel ferry, divert off the motorway to a local inn in a country town, and make your leisurely way to the snow. Or take any combination in between. However you do it is your choice and at your speed.

 

Here are some important points about self-drive again:

You must carry an insurance certificate and inform your insurance company in advance that you are travelling abroad.

You must take your registration document and a current tax disc, and your full driving licence.

Check your antifreeze - it needs to be at the manufacturer's recommended level for -30°C.

Take a windscreen scraper and de-icer.

Take a warning triangle.

Attach headlamp beam converters to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic.

Take a torch and a shovel.

You are legally required to carry snow chains when driving on mountain roads in all European countries; on the spot fines can be made if you do not have them. They can be hired or bought in the UK, or bought during the journey, but prices can be high if you buy them up the mountain. It is usually easier to take them with you.

 

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